Available services
To become a number one destination for all of auto repair and maintenance services.
We provide a wide range of auto repair and maintenance services for individuals as well as fleet companies. Customer service excellence and quality control are our #1 priority.
AIR CONDITIONING & Heating
- Conversions from R12 to R134A
- Climate Controls
- A/C System Inspection
- Custom Built A/C Hoses
- Remanufactured A/C Hoses
- SCompressors. OEM
- Aftermarket. Remanufactured
- Flush and Vacuum
- Oil
- Freon/ Refrigerant
- Drier/Filter
- O-Rings
- Expansion Device
- Electrical Connections
- Clutch/Pulley Turning
Services department
Service Overview
We have a few options for you while your vehicle is being repaired:
- - Waiting Room- for repairs up to five hours. Fresh coffee and a TV are available.
- - Courtesy Ride-for repairs more than 5hrs. Maximum trip distance is 5 miles from the repair shop.
- Car Rent-we are working with Enterprise Rent a Car and Hertz for all of your rental needs.
Main services
Your Vehicle will be diagnosed by utilizing:
-Top of the line shop equipment
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Computerized text and graphic repair manuals
Lucas auto A/C Car Care clinic is licensed business for automotive repairs. License #: AC248247
Custom built AC hoses While U wait
AIR CONDITIONING
Flush and Vacuum
Your compressor failed for a reason. There are two main reasons why compressors fail. Number 2 is oil starvation, where the system is not properly lubricated and thus burns out. The number 1 reason is contamination in the system. Cleaning out this contamination is crucial to ensuring that the new compressor is not also contaminated. We require every system to be properly flushed and vacuumed.We recommend flushing the system and vacuuming, then inspecting what comes out through a coffee filter for discoloration or metal flakes. Always flush and evacuate before changing parts. Always use A/C system flush solvent. If it is not perfectly clean after the flush and vacuum, we recommend re-flushing the system. If it is still not perfect, then we recommend replacing the condenser and possibly other parts such as hoses or the evaporator. Do not bother flushing a third time. Many newer vehicles have serpentine or parallel flow condensers that simply cannot be properly cleaned and must be replaced at this point.
Oil
Oil is crucial to a properly functioning A/C system. It is crucial to use a high quality oil to ensure that it will not break down over time. Remember the number 2 cause of compressor failure is oil starvation, often from the oil decomposing over time. That decomposed oil can often be the cause of the debris in a contaminated system. We recommend a double end capped PAG oil or better. Check the book for the proper viscosity. Oil comes as 46, 100 or 150 viscosity. You will need the correct type for your vehicle, they are not interchangeable and higher is not better. Each compressor is designed to work with certain oil.Many of our compressors come pre-filled with oil. We can never guarantee that the oil is the correct amount. Most manufacturers put just a few ounces of oil in for testing and shipping. We can also never guarantee the quality of that oil, or how long the oil has been in there. Oil exposed to atmosphere can expedite the breakdown process. Therefore, we recommend dumping all oil and starting with a sealed bottle of premium oil. Do your own measuring to ensure the job is done properly. Also check the specifications book; many manufactures want half oil in the compressor and half in the drier, some want all in the compressor. Don't guess, follow the instructions.
Freon/ Refrigerant
Pure R134 for R134 systems and retrofits. Pure R12 for R12 systems. No exceptions.There are a ton of 'Freon/ Refrigerant alternatives' out there. The bottom line is that none of those have been tested to work with the seals and gaskets inside our compressors. We can therefore not warranty our parts when you use these products. Ensure that you are only using refrigerant from a sealed, trustworthy source. Be careful, there are many of fraudulent products on the market.
Drier/Filter
The drier is the filter on the A/C system. Some vehicles have an accumulator and some have a receiver drier, but either way the internals do the same thing. A new drier is required every time you change the compressor, no exceptions. Inside a drier is a desiccant element that pulls moisture and debris from the system. Remember that moisture from water is very bad, it alters the viscosity and can ruin a system.Just like you wouldn't change your engine oil without changing your oil filter, the same is true on A/C systems. You want that drier cleaning your system to ensure long lasting performance. You definitely not want that old drier dumping debris back into the system.
O-Rings
Most modern A/C systems use O-Rings at every connection. Half of all A/C leaks turn out to be wrong, bad or improperly installed O-Rings. We recommend that O-rings be changed with the compressor. We recommend that as you remove an O-ring, that you tape it to a piece of paper and note next to it where it came from. This way if you have a problem in that area later, you can double check that you used the correct O-ring.Expansion Device
The expansion device is a generic term. It can be an orifice tube, expansion valve or expansion block. An orifice tube should always be replaced, it should never be cleaned. An expansion valve or block is a little more difficult. They should always be removed and inspected or replaced during a repair. A stuck expansion device can allow too much pressure to build in a system and thus blow out the head of the compressor. The rule of thumb is that if you are replacing the compressor because it is leaking or not blowing cold enough, then cleaning is acceptable. Any other failure requires a new expansion device. If unsure, it never hurts to change the expansion device.Electrical Connections Note:
We make every effort to supply all compressors with the appropriate electrical connections. However, it is possible that the connector on our compressor could be different that your application. Most new compressors are also supplied without a connector. If this is the case, you may cut the wire in order to use your connection WITHOUT affecting your warranty. We recommend using wire nuts secured with electrical tape for these connections.Most compressors are shipped without switches or sensors. If switches, sensors and/or a line manifold are necessary, use these from the old unit.
Clutch/Pulley Turning Note:
All compressors are bench tested at standard RPM's, However, all compressors MAY NOT ALWAYS turn by hand! Many popular compressors (including H6 Series GM) will NOT turn by hand. Do not force it.
COOLING & HEATING SYSTEM
An engine that is overheating will quickly self destruct, so proper maintenance of the cooling system is very important to the life of the engine and the trouble free operation of the cooling system in general. Cooling system service and repairs include water pumps, hoses, radiators, heater cores, electrical and mechanical cooling fans. Also included may be heater/AC control head operation, electric coolant pumps and other such electrical components. Many times this requires and electrical diagnosis for cooling system to operate correctly which we are trained to do. Overheating an engine causes damage that may not show up right away and a full inspection after an engine overheats is recommended. The National Automotive Radiator Service Association (NARSA) recommends that motorists have a seven-point preventative cooling system maintenance check at least once every two years. The seven-point program is designed to identify any areas that need attention. It consists of:
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a visual inspection of all cooling system components, including belts and hoses
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a radiator pressure cap test to check for the recommended system pressure leve
- a thermostat check for proper opening and closing
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a pressure test to identify any external leaks to the cooling system parts; including the radiator, water pump, engine coolant passages, radiator and heater hoses and heater core
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an internal leak test to check for combustion gas leakage into the cooling system
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an engine fan test for proper operationa system power flush and refill with car manufacturer's recommended concentration of coolant
ELECTRICAL
Battery
Whenever a car exhibits symptoms of a charging or starting system failure, the most basic test that should be performed first is a visual and voltage test of the battery. Knowing the exact condition of the battery is the best way to know whether or not to suspect other system components and can prevent the unnecessary installation of a starter or alternator, which cannot repair the vehicle until the battery is up to snuff.An average battery should last 3-5 years in average climates but those in high heat or extreme cold areas may last only 2-3 years. The replacement battery should always have the same or higher CCA rating (cold cranking amps) as the original and be of the same or compatible "group size" to fit the battery tray and cable connections.
Alternator
The alternator produces electricity used to maintain battery storage charge and to help run all the electrical accessories, including the ignition and the engine control systems. It is belt-driven by the engine and produces an alternating current (AC), which is converted internally to 12 volts direct current (DC) by the diode bridge or rectifiers. The other major electrical component in your car's electrical system is used only a few times a day but is the single largest power user and most critical to your car's operation - its starter. The starter is simply a DC motor that turns the engine crankshaft through the flywheel, starting the combustion process by creating compression within the cylinders. Voltage to the starter is supplied directly from the battery and is controlled by a relay and/or solenoid operated from the key switch inside your car. Most starters will easily outlast a new vehicle warranty if it's not overused, if good connections are maintained and if it's not overheated through dirt and grime buildup.
MAINTENANCE SERVICES
As part of a routine vehicle maintenance program, a tune-up is usually performed at 10,000-mile intervals. At the same mileage interval, many other maintenance services should be performed. Some of the other common routine services at 10,000 miles usually include
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engine oil and filter change
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tire rotation
- air filter replaced
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Air Conditioning cabin filter if required
COMPUTER DIAGNOSTICS
Nowadays, we realize the importance of use of an up to date technology, software and equipment more than ever. To achieve inspection accuracy, efficient repair, and decrease labor costs we utilize the most modern and comprehensive equipment out there. We pass on these benefits to our customers.
TIRE REPLACEMENT and BALANCING
We supply Light Truck and Passenger Tires: Hankook, Sumitomo, Bridgestone, Firestone, Falken, Yokohama, Doral, Michelin, BFGoodrich, General Tire, Kumho, Maxxis, ACHILLES, Gladiator, Continental, Uniroyal, Triangle etc.
We have a few options for you while your vehicle is being repaired:
- Waiting Room- for repairs up to five hours. Fresh coffee and a TV are available.
- Courtesy Ride-for repairs more than 5hrs. Maximum trip distance is 5 miles from the repair shop.
- Car Rent-we are working with Enterprise Rent a Car and Hertz for all of your rental needs.
WE WELCOME NATIONAL ACCOUNTS We believe in developing long-term positive relationships with our corporate clients. With most of them we have worked for over 20 years. We have a customer loyalty program in place for corporate clients. We issue a membership card with 20% discount for the staff personal use.